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    This Victorian era amazing antique Kashmir hand embroidered woven wool pieced paisley long duster coat dates from It is made of colorful soft Kashmir wool hand embroidered and pieced together in a paisley pine cone shaped tear drop motif boteh and decorative floral leaf designs.

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    By the early s, skirts had reached their ultimate width. After about the silhouette of the crinoline changed and rather than being bell-shaped it was now flatter at the front and projected out more behind.

    Puffs and strips could cover much of the skirt. There could be so many flounces that the material of the skirt itself was hardly visible.

    Lace again became popular and was used all over the dress. Any part of the dress could also be embroidered in silver or gold. This massive construct of a dress required gauze lining to stiffen it, as well as multiple starched petticoats.

    Even the clothes women would ride horses in received these sorts of embellishments. Day dresses featured wide pagoda sleeves worn over undersleeves or engageantes.

    High necklines with lace or tatted collars or chemisettes completed the demure daytime look. Evening gowns had low necklines and short sleeves, and were worn with short gloves or lace or crocheted fingerless mitts.

    The voluminous skirts were supported by hoops, petticoats, and or crinolines. The use of hoops was not as common until , prior supporting the skirts with layers of starched petticoats.

    Bouffant gowns with large crinolines were probably reserved for special occasions. Skirts were now assembled of shaped panels, since gathering a straight length of fabric could not provide the width required at the hem without unwanted bulk at the waist; this spelled the end of the brief fashion for border-printed dress fabrics.

    Heavy silks in solid colors became fashionable for both day and evening wear, and a skirt might be made with two bodices , one long-sleeved and high necked for afternoon wear and one short-sleeved and low-necked for evening.

    The bodices themselves were often triangular, and featured a two-piece front with a closure and a three-piece back construction.

    As the decade progressed, sleeves narrowed, and the circular hoops of the s decreased in size at the front and sides and increased at the back.

    Looped up overskirts revealed matching or contrasting underskirts, a look that would reach its ultimate expression the next two decades with the rise of the bustle.

    Waistlines rose briefly at the end of the decade. Fashions were adopted more slowly in America than in Europe.

    It was not uncommon for fashion plates to appear in American women's magazines a year or more after they appeared in Paris or London.

    Long coats were impractical with the very full skirts, and the common outer garments were square shawls folded on the diagonal to make a triangle and fitted or unfitted hip-length or knee-length jackets.

    For walking, jackets were accompanied by floor-length skirts that could be looped or drawn up by means of tapes over a shorter petticoat.

    As skirts became narrower and flatter in front, more emphasis was placed on the waist and hips. A corset was therefore used to help mold the body to the desired shape.

    This was achieved by making the corsets longer than before, and by constructing them from separate shaped pieces of fabric.

    To increase rigidity, they were reinforced with many strips of whalebone, cording, or pieces of leather. As well as making corsets more constricting, this heavy structure helped prevent them from riding up, or from wrinkling at the waist.

    Steam-molding also helped create a curvaceous contour. The crinoline or hooped petticoat had grown to its maximum dimensions by As huge skirts began to fall from favor, around , the shape of the crinoline began to change.

    Rather than being dome-shaped, the front and sides began to contract, leaving volume only at the back. The "American" cage, a hooped petticoat partially covered in fabric, came in bright colors made possible by the new aniline dyes.

    The cage structure was still attached around the waist and extended down to the ground, but only extended down the back of the wearer's legs.

    The crinolette itself was quickly superseded by the true bustle, which was sufficient for supporting the drapery and train at the back of the skirt.

    A chemise is typically short sleeve and knee length made of linen or cotton. The chemise and stockings worn were meant to soak up any perspiration and protecting the outer clothing.

    Due to the many layers of dress, the women of the southern elite would take short naps to rest from wearing their large dress and escape the harsh southern heat and the constraining whalebone corsets.

    Following a visit by the Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi to England in , the shirt became all the rage there. In America , the early years of the Civil War also saw increased popularity of military-influenced styles such as Zouave jackets.

    These new styles were worn over a waist blouse or chemisette and a skirt with a belt at the natural waistline. Women's fashion overall was highly influenced by the reigning Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom.

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